Organic Cotton: A Major Environmental Challenge
"Is it cotton? I don’t like polyester; it's a petroleum derivative, and I'm pretty eco-conscious." "I prefer to buy cotton; it's hypoallergenic and much more ecological." The climate context is pushing us to re-evaluate our consumer habits. Today, we cannot ignore the production methods of the products and materials we use, nor the ecological challenges they entail. We had already explored the topic of organic cotton. (You can find our first article on the subject HERE), but this one is even more in-depth. It is important to understand the complexities of conventional cotton production to highlight that this fiber is far from the healthiest, contrary to popular belief. Many of us are mistaken in thinking we are making an eco-responsible choice by consuming cotton rather than other synthetic fibers. And yes, cotton is not necessarily a guarantee of quality. Its production conditions and environmental impact are far from irreproachable. It is time to stop ignoring the fundamental information about the textile fibers we use for our clothes, our children's clothes, and our homes. In this article, we will compare conventional cotton with organic cotton and understand why organic cotton is today the necessary alternative for a true ecological transition in textile production.
1) Why use organic cotton?
It is a premium textile fiber for three main reasons.
For a reduced environmental impact
Organic cotton is ecological. It is grown without pesticides and GMOs. Its cultivation preserves the quality of soils, ecosystems, and thus biodiversity in general. It is derived from organic farming. Practices such as crop rotation, composting, and the use of organic fertilizers improve soil fertility and structure. These gentle techniques for the earth reduce erosion and the degradation of fauna and flora. Furthermore, drip irrigation and the use of drought-resistant cotton varieties can significantly reduce water consumption.
To preserve the well-being of farmers
Thanks to its healthy production method and absence of chemical fertilizers, agricultural workers are much less exposed to toxic products that can cause pathologies. Indeed, Inserm (French National Institute of Health and Medical Research) has confirmed that there can be positive associations between occupational exposure to pesticides and certain human pathologies. Parkinson's disease and prostate cancer are among the tragic direct consequences. Farmers who have opted for an ecological production method and organic cotton cultivation preserve the planet, as well as their own health.
To ensure superior quality
Finally, organic cotton offers undeniable advantages. Thanks to its soft and hypoallergenic properties, this fabric is ideal for protecting sensitive skin. Moreover, organic cotton clothing is generally more durable and of better quality than traditional cotton, whose fibers are weakened by chemicals.
2) The context of conventional cotton production
Exploitation of Uyghurs
Among the few cotton-producing countries, China is the largest. A large part of this cotton comes from the Xinjiang region, in the far west of the country. For several years, this region has been at the center of controversies, particularly regarding serious human rights violations. Indeed, Uyghurs, a Muslim ethnic minority living in Xinjiang, are often forced to work in conditions close to slavery to produce cotton. These practices raise major ethical questions concerning the origin of our cotton clothing.
What is the environmental impact of cotton?
Conventional cotton cultivation is one of the most polluting in the world for three main reasons.
- It uses massive quantities of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Obviously, these practices contaminate soils, waterways, and affect local fauna and flora. So yes, cotton is a natural fiber, but its production is extremely polluting.
- Cotton cultivation requires enormous quantities of water. Up to 20,000 liters of water can be used to produce one kilogram.
- Finally, its transformation process into textile fiber is also very polluting. Many chemical and toxic products are used. The consequences are more than harmful at the local level, both for workers and for the surrounding nature.
3) How to recognize organic cotton?
Here are some tips to help you identify products and avoid greenwashing traps.
Certifications to look for
Here are some of the most reliable certifications:
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GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): This certification guarantees a composition of at least 70% organic fibers. All stages of production are verified: manufacturing, packaging, labeling, and distribution.
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OEKO-TEX Standard 100: This certification ensures that the product does not contain substances harmful to human health, without necessarily guaranteeing organic cotton.
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Fairtrade International: This certification guarantees fair working conditions and equitable prices for farmers and workers. It also includes environmental protection criteria.
Labels and Transparency
Brands committed to sustainable production are generally transparent about their practices and provide important information on their labels.
- Organic cotton mention: Make sure the label explicitly states that the cotton is organic.
- Certification information: Look for GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or Fairtrade certification logos.
- Supply chain transparency: Responsible brands often provide detailed information about the origin of the cotton and the production practices used.
4) The Challenges of Organic Cotton
Organic cotton production involves certain constraints.
How to make organic cotton?
To cultivate plants organically, and thus cotton, it is important to follow several simple steps. First, the chosen seeds must be GMO-free. Then, the soil is prepared with compost to make it rich and fertile. The seeds are planted by hand. To protect the plants from harmful insects, it is essential to use natural methods, such as attracting beneficial insects or installing special traps. For water conservation, a drip irrigation system is recommended. It is also wise to choose drought-resistant varieties, as they require less watering. Harvesting is also done by hand, and to ensure that everything has been done ecologically, it is possible to request organic certification. Yield and cost
Due to the absence of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the yield of organic cotton crops is generally much lower than that of conventional crops. This results in higher production costs and more limited available stock. Furthermore, the organic certification process proves costly and complex for small farmers. This can be a barrier to adopting organic and fair practices.
Competition with conventional cotton
Conventional cotton, often cheaper to produce, dominates the global market. Like quality products, organic cotton items are generally more expensive. Buying them represents a budget. Finally, it is difficult for you as a consumer to differentiate between organic and conventional. This confusion leads to lower demand, and that's why we want to explain it to you in this article.
5) Examples of eco-responsible products in organic cotton and textile fibers less harmful than conventional cotton
To better guide your choices, we have selected some items and materials that will make your home and wardrobe references in terms of ethical and ecological fashion.
Home linens, underwear, and baby products
From the long, non-exhaustive list of eco-responsible textile products, we have chosen three.
- Baby clothes and childcare products: Like www.carotteetcie.com, more and more brands are choosing this material for babies and children. Soft on the skin and free from harmful chemicals, they respect the fragility of our little ones' skin. Comforters, bibs, and other plush toys are no exception to the trend.
- Home linen: organic cotton sheets, bath towels, beach towels, and blankets are comfortable, allow the skin to breathe, and absorb moisture and sweat. Moreover, they are our allies in limiting indoor pollution in our homes, often already too loaded with endocrine disruptors.
- Underwear: organic cotton panties and pajamas have become essentials for a cozy, eco-responsible, and comfortable indoor style. Among the essential underwear, also consider researching organic cotton menstrual panties. They respect your body and allow you to feel comfortable during sensitive times.
Natural and ecological fibers
Organic cotton is not the only alternative. Here is a non-exhaustive list of plant-based fibers.
- Linen: It is a robust and biodegradable fiber that requires little water and pesticides for cultivation. It is also naturally insect resistant. Linen is appreciated for its lightness and ability to keep the body cool.
- Hemp: It is one of the most ecological fibers, requiring very little water and no pesticides. Its cultivation regenerates soils by enriching them with nutrients. Hemp is durable, resistant, and has antimicrobial properties.
- Bamboo: It is a fast-growing plant that requires little water and no pesticides. Bamboo fabric is soft, breathable, and has antibacterial properties. Its transformation process can be polluting depending on the products used. Remember to check!
- Tencel (Lyocell): This fiber is made from wood pulp, generally from eucalyptus, oak, or birch. Tencel production uses a closed-loop process that recycles water and solvents, thus minimizing environmental impact. Tencel is soft, breathable, and biodegradable.
- Ramie: This vegetable fiber comes from the nettle family plant. It is resistant, light, and has antimicrobial properties. Ramie requires few pesticides and water for its cultivation, making it a top ecological choice.
6) Organic cotton, the necessary alternative for a fairer world
As you will have understood, it represents much more than a simple alternative to conventional textiles. It embodies a vision of a future in which it is possible to combine sustainable fashion and protection of the planet. Every purchase of organic cotton is a step towards a more sustainable and equitable world.
Next time you ask: "Is it cotton?", remember that the origin and production method of this cotton are just as important as its composition. By choosing organic cotton, you make an informed choice for biodiversity, for farmers, for your well-being, and that of your children.
Together, let's continue to support and promote responsible and ethical consumption practices. Because every small gesture counts and, all together, we can make a big difference.
Article written by Maëva Larripa for Carotte & Cie.
Sources:
Monde, L. (2020, December 15). Les Ouïgours, victimes de travail forcé dans les champs de coton en Chine, selon un rapport. Le Monde.fr. https://www.lemonde.fr/international/article/2020/12/15/les-ouigours-victimes-de-travail-force-dans-les-champs-de-coton-en-chine-selon-un-rapport_6063438_3210.html
Agence Bio. (2023, September 15). Les textes réglementaires - Agence Bio. https://www.agencebio.org/decouvrir-le-bio/les-textes-reglementaires/#:~:text=Les%20produits%20Bio%20doivent%2C%20lors,vente%20aupr%C3%A8s%20du%20consommateur%20final.
Pesticides et santé – Nouvelles données (2021) · Inserm, La science pour la santé. (n.d.). Inserm. https://www.inserm.fr/expertise-collective/pesticides-et-sante-nouvelles-donnees-2021/
Fairytale. (2022, September 12). Les 3 labels les plus fiables pour garantir le coton bio. Fairytale. https://www.fairytale.eco/blogs/news/les-3-labels-les-plus-fiables-pour-garantir-le-coton-bio
Écoconso. (2024, February 20). Quel textile écologique choisir pour ses vêtements? https://www.ecoconso.be/fr/content/quel-textile-ecologique-choisir-pour-ses-vetements#:~:text=Les%20fibres%20naturelles%20sont%20issues,%2C%20laine%2C%20duvet%2C%20fourrure.
World Health Organization: WHO. (2023, December 15). Household air pollution. https://www.who.int/fr/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/household-air-pollution-and-health